Good to know about wood and how it is worked

Wood oils are generally much easier to apply than other wood treatments. Oils penetrate deeper into the pores and protect the timber against moisture from within. The lasting breathability is another important factor, particularly for furniture in bathrooms or outdoors: because the surface stays open to diffusion, the wood can absorb moisture and release it again without taking damage. Oiling also helps to prevent cracking. And oiled wood simply looks good, feels velvety and has a rustic charm. A varnish, by contrast, forms a closed, very hard-wearing film, but one that is laborious to repair once damaged.

Oiled surfaces are pleasantly easy to look after: for everyday care a dry or slightly damp soft cloth is enough. Avoid harsh or abrasive cleaners and do not press hard with a microfibre cloth, as both can dull the surface. Heavily used areas can be refreshed once or twice a year with a little care oil – this renews the protection and lets small marks disappear. We are glad to tell you which oil suits your piece.

That depends on use. A dining table that is used daily and wiped with a damp cloth appreciates a thin coat of care oil once or twice a year. A lightly used sideboard often goes years without. Rule of thumb: when water no longer beads but soaks in and darkens the wood, it is time to re-oil. This is simple and easily done at home.

Blot fresh spills straight away with an absorbent cloth. Light water marks on oiled surfaces often disappear if you lightly sand the spot and apply a thin coat of oil. On varnished surfaces marks tend to sit on top and can be wiped off carefully. Stubborn stains on valuable pieces are best shown to us before you experiment with household remedies – some of them attack the surface.

In most cases yes – and this is one of the great advantages of solid wood over coated boards. Fine scratches in oiled surfaces can be sanded and re-oiled so that they practically vanish. Even deeper dents can often be lifted out again with moisture and heat. Varnished or veneered pieces take a little more effort; we are happy to handle that too.

Wood adapts to its surroundings, drawing moisture from the air and releasing it again as required. If the air is too dry the timber loses moisture, which causes fine gaps and cracks. When humidity rises again, these close as the wood swells. However, if humidity stays below the optimum range and the temperature above it for a long period, the timber can be damaged.

Even as furniture, wood stays alive: in damp air it swells slightly, in dry air it shrinks. This “working” shows as minimal changes in size and occasionally as fine gaps at joints. It is not a defect but a property of the natural material – we build our furniture precisely so that the wood can work without taking harm.

Almost all timbers change colour in light – this is called patina. Cherry and walnut grow darker and warmer, oak becomes more golden. This maturing is intended and is part of the appeal of solid wood. So that it develops evenly, move tablecloths, vases or decorations around from time to time during the first months, so that covered areas do not stay lighter.

Solid wood – and, incidentally, people too – are most comfortable at a relative humidity of roughly 45 to 60 %. In this range the wood barely moves. It becomes critical above all in winter, when heated rooms turn very dry; house plants, bowls of water or a humidifier then help to prevent cracks.

Right next to a heat source wood dries out on one side and can crack – a distance of about 30 cm from the radiator is ideal. On underfloor heating solid wood furniture is generally fine, but it should have air underneath; closed plinths directly on the warm floor are unfavourable. Just mention it when planning a piece for such a room and we will allow for it in the construction.

Solid wood is real wood right through – it can be sanded, reworked and lasts for generations. Veneer is a thin layer of real wood on a stable core; it looks like solid wood, is lighter and more dimensionally stable over large areas, but can only be sanded back to a limited degree. Decor is a printed surface that merely imitates wood. We work mainly with solid wood and high-quality veneer and will advise you on what makes sense for your piece.

“Hard” and “soft” describe the density of the wood. Hardwoods such as oak, beech, ash or walnut are resilient and ideal for heavily used furniture such as tables, stairs or floors. Softwoods such as spruce, pine or larch are lighter, warmer to the touch and popular for rustic furniture and interior fit-out, but show signs of use more quickly. Which wood is right depends on the use and on the character you want.

In damp rooms and outdoors, natural durability is what counts. Oak, robinia, larch and teak are naturally durable and suit bathrooms, kitchens and sheltered outdoor areas. The right surface matters – oiled wood is easier to maintain in a bathroom than varnished. For outdoor use we design in constructive wood protection so that water runs off well and does not soak into the timber in the first place.

When selecting timber we always look for sustainable forestry. In historic properties we use local timber from the surrounding area wherever possible and sensible, in order to preserve the character of the historic fabric. Our carefully chosen suppliers allow us to guarantee sustainability and consistently high quality.

Solid wood regulates humidity naturally and does without the adhesives of large-area board materials. Oiled solid wood surfaces give off practically no emissions. Anyone who is sensitive or values a healthy living environment is well served by solid, oiled wood – on request we use low-emission oils that are even suitable for children’s toys.

Yes – an oiled solid wood worktop is warm, repairable and very durable. It withstands more than many people think: cut marks and small stains can be sanded and re-oiled instead of replacing the whole worktop. Around the sink and hob, do not let water stand and re-oil those areas a little more often. We treat kitchen worktops with food-safe oil.

With good care wooden windows last for decades. Wipe the frames with a damp cloth once or twice a year and check the weather-exposed outer face. A fresh coat is due roughly every 5 to 8 years depending on weather and orientation – weather sides sooner than sheltered ones. If the coating cracks or flakes, do not wait too long, so that no moisture gets into the wood.

Oiled or matt-varnished wooden stairs have good grip and are no more slippery than other coverings; high-gloss seals combined with socks can be more slippery, which is why we rarely use them for stairs. A cloth wrung out almost dry, with no standing water, is enough for cleaning. The heavily used treads may be given a little care oil once or twice a year. On request we work fine anti-slip features into the steps.

That is one of our strengths. We match the type of wood, colour tone and surface so that new furniture fits with what you already have – right down to a faithful reconstruction of individual parts. This is often called for in homes that have grown over time and in historic houses.

Yes. Restoring historic furniture, windows, doors and kitchens has been part of our core business for decades. Bring your piece along or send us photos – then we can judge what can be done.

That is exactly what we are here for. Almost everything we make is produced individually, to your measurements, your wishes and the space available. It starts with a conversation, often with measuring on site – from which we develop a proposal.